Batwing Boots

2008-2009

As explained in this series’ introduction, any closed-toe footwear, except for the “pump” style, requires piecing together leather or forming it before lasting to accommodate the foot’s volume and curvature. Forming is a more premium approach, as it requires larger, continuous pieces of material and time for the material to set and take shape. Sometimes, an additional mold separate from the last is needed; thus, most uppers are made with smaller pieces of leather sewn together. For example, in Oxford shoes, the toe cap is often a separate piece of leather with a straight seam across the base of the toe, which is more cost-efficient.

While the toe cap seam has its practical origins, many shoemakers have unquestioningly adhered to stylistic traditions. To challenge this notion, we explored an alternative approach with the Batwing Boots, each crafted from just two continuous pieces of leather. The front seam features a long, concealed zipper that serves three functions: it creates a curved volume (from the toe to the instep, ankle, and shin), facilitates easy entry and exit of the foot and leg, and adds a decorative touch. Meanwhile, the back seam contours the curvature from the heel to the calf.

The Batwing Boots were designed and made during private lessons with Mauricio Osorio, the late master shoemaker at Western Costume and for many Hollywood stars.